on surfing

I've been trying to make the most out of every weekend since I arrived in LA, and taking steps to check off as many items off my "Summer in Cali" checklist as possible. And I think I took the biggest of steps this weekend.
Yesterday, I took my first ever surfing class! We drove to Venice beach at 7 in the morning and after walking around for a bit while waiting for our Hawaiian super chill instructor Nick to completely wake up, we put on our wetsuits (I say "our", but really, they were all Nick's), grabbed our surfboards (again, you know what "our" means) and walked to the beach. On my way there, I got to talk to Nick and learn more about him. He's a super cool person who majored in film studies in college, traveled to many places around the world, speaks many languages, and of course, LOVES surfing. In fact, his place looks like a little surfing store or instruction center rather than a home, and his entire day and life seem to be structured around surfing and wave patterns. In other words, he depends a lot on Mother Nature to determine his daily schedule. While we were chatting, he told me that my Pilates and yoga backgrounds would come in very handy--I didn't quite know why, but felt a little bit more self-confident when he said that.
After a few practices on land, we jumped in the water. Nick wanted to show us how to catch a wave, so he started the day off. Now he's been surfing for 20 years, so you can imagine how unbelievably effortless and easy he made it look. Obviously, that perception of easiness lasted for about 30 seconds until my first attempt at getting up.
I cannot tell you how many times I fell, how much water I swallowed or inhaled, how much sand I chewed on during our three hours in the water, BUT the great news is that I managed to get up and catch waves! Wohooo!!! It's a really weird feeling when you're on the board, on your feet (not on your knees or chest or anything), actually gliding on the water, and realize not only that you did not fall, but that it doesn't seem like you're going to fall anytime soon. It's a rare occurrence, but when it happens, it feels great.
I've always been somewhat of a perfectionist, so it was frustrating for me to keep falling and not really being able to tell why I was falling each time. So after each time I fell and landed on my ass or face or side, I would spend my trip back to the starting position thinking (and asking Nick) about what I did wrong, and how I could improve. But after a while, and thanks to Nick's suggestion that I "relax my butt" and his sense of humor, I realized how enjoyable the entire process is-- the failures as well as the handful of successes.
On my way home, I found myself closing my eyes and imagining myself in the water, pushing myself up onto the board, hearing Nick yell "pop up!" in my head, and smiling. That's when I realized that surfing is one of the best forms of meditation I have ever come across. As much as I enjoy the serenity that comes with meditating in a quiet, isolated setting, I sometimes find it hard to not think about anything else in such settings. Surfing, on the other hand, requires so much mind-body-nature-instinct coordination, endurance, and attention that you can't afford to think about anything else. That's why your entire body, mind, and soul are working together for the same purpose-- and you're mind can completely recharge.
I woke up this morning with a sore back, shoulders, and arms, and it was the BEST feeling EVER. I absolutely love the pain because it reminds me of how amazing an experience my first attempt at surfing was, and I can't wait to go back to Nick for my second class.

till then,
Aloha!